Plantation

Trip to Himachal Pradesh (India)

9 November 2012
Trip to Himachal Pradesh (India)

I’m on my way to Dharamsala, Palampur and Baijnath, three towns in Himachal Pradesh (India). I haven’t visited this tea-producing region, near Kashmir, for 12 years.
The plantations in this region date back to the British colonial era; they are the same age as those of Darjeeling. In 1905, a terrible earthquake saw the settlers flee, but the plantations still exist.
The soil is as good as it is in Darjeeling, and the climate suits the tea plant, so it is time to see if the quality has improved in those parts, and whether we may at last one day taste fine teas from the region.

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Darjeeling: the dream and the reality

6 November 2012
Darjeeling: the dream and the reality

This is a rather idyllic view of Darjeeling: a charming town with plenty of green space, spread out among the tea plantations in the Himalayan foothills.
The reality is more complex: the city has more than 100,000 inhabitants and spreads out much further than can be seen here. The roads are crumbling, all the city’s water has to be trucked in, and the traffic increases every year, making it very congested.

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An interesting use for the tea plant

19 October 2012
An interesting use for the tea plant

I don’t know how you usually dry your laundry. If you have a beautiful landscape in front of your house, like here, with tea plants on your doorstep, the bushes make an excellent structure on which to hang out your clothes. This method is adopted on many plantations.
It just goes to show how many uses there are for the tea plant.

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The last autumn teas in Darjeeling

16 October 2012
The last autumn teas in Darjeeling

In a month’s time, the Darjeeling season will be over.
The temperature will drop and the tea plants will go dormant. Before then, a few autumn or “third flush” teas are still being produced, and there are other jobs to be getting on with, like here, at Delmas Bari, where the young shrubs are being tended to.
These ones are now big enough to leave the nursery and be planted out in the ground.

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Century-old wild tea plants

12 October 2012
Century-old wild tea plants


If one day you decide you want to see what a wild tea plant looks like, you could visit the Golden Triangle. On the border between China and Burma you might be lucky enough to come across the famous tea plants, often a hundred years old, that are used to make pu er.
You may have to drive for several days to see them. But you will also find a tea plant the size of a tree in Darjeeling, in the Botanic Gardens. It is the same age as the region’s tea plantations, nearly two hundred years old.
To give you an idea of its size, I asked someone measuring around 180cm to stand at its foot.
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Expertise makes good tea

9 October 2012
Expertise makes good tea

Because I visit the production regions regularly I am able to stay abreast of changes that take place on the plantations.
I’ll give you an example: today, a garden like Runglee Rungliot is completely unknown among the public, and justifiably so – it does not produce good tea.
But for things to change radically, all it needs is an experienced planter to come and work at the garden. The tea plants, the altitude, the orientation: this place has it all, and one day it will produce top quality teas.

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India: heavy rains cause landslides

14 September 2012
India: heavy rains cause landslides

During the months of July and August there are heavy rains in Darjeeling, and many landslides occur in the weeks following the downpours. Sometimes you see a pretty little village that appears to be suspended over a ravine.

The tea plants you see in the foreground and on the slope itself are near Lingia.

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Looking like a vineyard…

4 September 2012
Looking like a vineyard…

In southern China, on the slopes of Phoenix Mountain, tea bushes are planted on terraces due to the steep gradients. This way of organising tea bushes is quite a rare sight around the world. Here, it makes this tea plantation on a mountainside where some remarkable wu longs are grown look a bit like a vineyard.

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Feng Huang Shan mountains, China

31 August 2012
Feng Huang Shan mountains, China

Have you ever tasted a Dan Cong tea? These famous wu longs are produced in Guangdong province (China), in the Feng Huang Shan mountains where I took this photo, facing in the direction of the sea.

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Visiting Japan’s first tea gardens

14 August 2012
Visiting Japan’s first tea gardens

It is worth visiting Japan’s first tea gardens. These ones were planted on the island of Kyushu, apparently around the 17th century. They are very small gardens, situated on the mountainsides. To visit them you must travel through dense forests, mainly made up of magnificent cryptomeria trees. You walk along a narrow, well-worn path and then, coming across a clearing, you discover a tea garden.

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