Pluckers checking the quality of their work

At the end of every morning and afternoon during the harvest, the women gather to get their leaves weighed. It’s an opportunity to relax, and everyone talks, unless they want to listen to what the others have to say. Of course, if they find a stranger like myself among them, as they did that day, their tongues wag even faster, accompanied by plenty of laughter.

While listening to their colleagues joking, the pluckers run their hands through the leaves to check the quality of their work. The pretty red and white fabric these women wear on their heads is typical of their region: Assam.

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I have just tasted the very first teas of the season

In Darjeeling, October marks the start of the autumn tea harvest. Once the Diwali and Dussehra festivals are over, the workers start plucking the leaves, of which there are now too many after the holidays. A week later, they carry out a more delicate plucking which will serve to produce a high quality tea.

Here, with Abishek Dev, grower at the Teesta Valley Tea Estate, I am tasting the very first teas of the season.

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Le Palais des Thés team in Darjeeling

Once a year, I ask some of the senior staff at Le Palais des Thés who have not yet been on a trip with me to pack their bags and accompany me into the tea mountains. There is nothing like a visit to the plantations to compare your theoretical knowledge with reality, and bring a fresh impetus to your learning.

So, in October 2011, here we are: Sarah Daubron (head of customer services), myself, Christine Delétrée (network director) and Paul Roudez (manager of the Rue de l’Annonciation), posing for a group photo by the Tumsong factory in Darjeeling (India).

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A thought for Seewan, a long-time friend

A few days ago I was shocked to hear of the brutal death of Seewan. Seewan was my driver for nearly 10 years. Every time I went to Darjeeling he would be there, waiting for me at Bagdogra airport, to take me into the mountains. He was extremely kind and never complained about anything. He was always cheerful, whatever the situation. He knew every area I visited, every tea plantation, every road. Seewan had become a good friend, and his murder has stunned and saddened me a great deal.

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Carton of eggs on the bonnet of a Jeep in Darjeeling

It’s just a detail, but something has intrigued me for years in Darjeeling. Why do people returning from market carry their shopping on their knees, with the notable exception of the cartons of eggs, which the community taxi driver places without hesitation on the bonnet of his Jeep?

When you know how bumpy the roads are in this region, and the hours of driving required just to get from one village to the next, it makes you wonder where they get the crazy idea of risking their fresh eggs in this way.
So I decided to investigate the matter, and I questioned several people while they were placing the cartons on the bonnet. I asked them why they transported their eggs like that. And each time I got the same answer, accompanied by a shrug of the shoulders, as if I had asked the most ridiculous question in the world.

-It’s where they are safest.

It’s true that when you get more than 20 people in a 4×4, a fragile item is more likely to get crushed inside the vehicle. And it’s true that there is so much weight thrown around at the rear of the vehicle that the most delicate items are best placed in front.

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